The Apache Trail Reveals More Secrets

Published in the Superstition Living Magazine in 2007

by Jeeptour Jodi of Apache Trail Tours

November 26th, 2006

The morning was a crisp 59 degrees as we boarded the open-air Jeep. After an abnormally warm fall, it was great to see the temperatures finally coming down. This was our cue that it was time to begin our winter explorations out and about around the Apache Trail and into the Superstition Mountains. Let the fun begin!

We had been anticipating this adventure for well over a month. The excitement was growing by the minute as we packed our gear for this extraordinary day. Camera - check, video camera - check, water - check, hiking sticks - check, GPS units - check, walkie talkies - check. We were ready to go!

Today's excursion would reveal a concealed treasure of history that has been lying dormant for more than half a century. Today, we would embark upon a journey to hike down the Salt River and along the primitive Apache Trail that has been submerged under the waters of Apache Lake since 1927. This was part of the original Apache Trail which was built by Apache and Pima laborers between 1903 and 1905.

During the construction of Horse Mesa Dam in 1927, the engineers soon realized that this new reservoir would totally engulf a seven mile stretch of the Apache Trail. The path of the roadway would have to be reconsidered, and then be relocated to higher ground. Work crews were hired on, and the first five miles of new roadway were completed. But the state ran out of funds and could not come up with dollars needed to finish the final two miles. Hence, the Apache Trail was closed on June 22nd, 1927.

City and State Officials became very concerned, as tourism on the Apache Trail brought in thousands of dollars every year. Southern & Pacific Railroad offered side trips of the Apache Trail to their patrons as a part of their Sunset Route that traversed the southern portion of the United States on way to California. They would need to discontinue the "Sunset Limited" if there was no way to get to Roosevelt Dam. As a temporary remedy, barges were employed to carry the passengers to and from Apache Lake and Roosevelt Dam. An appeal was made to Governor Hunt to raise funding to complete the project, and the last two miles were finally completed.

In order to do safety and maintenance work on the Horse Mesa Dam gates and spillways, Salt River Project began the gradual drawdown of Apache Lake this past August. Beginning after Labor Day 2006, the lake was lowered about one-half foot per day until the water level was approximately 50 feet below normal. Apache Lake has the capacity to hold 254,138 acre-feet of water, but currently stands at 137,300 acre-feet, a 46% decrease. Up river towards Roosevelt Dam, the water flowing through the Salt River is so low you can actually cross it by foot. When we learned about the drawdown of Apache Lake, we were eagerly awaiting the opportunity to do just that …. walk across the Salt River.

We traveled up the Apache Trail and could clearly see the old water line around Apache Lake. The mighty Salt River was now just a trickle. For miles, you could see the river rocks that have stockpiled along the bottom during the past 80 years, and see the remnants of the river meandering throughout its path in patches. Pools of emerald green water dappled the river bottom as if dropped down to earth from an ink blotter.

Our first stop was at 3 Mile Wash, just past MM 239. We drove down the wash and parked on the bank of the river. From the tracks in the sand, you could see that a few others had taken advantage of the lower water levels, and some had even crossed the Salt River in their vehicles. The sand was deep and grainy, and as you got closer to the river's edge it turned into soft, muddy silt.

The four of us stepped from the vehicle and after looking right, then to the left, we stood there in awe at the incredible sight we had so anxiously awaited. Along the banks we could actually see the jagged and crumbling rock outcroppings that seemed to border the river like broken ribbon candy. Before our eyes was the old and forgotten, disjointed and crumpled, original Apache Trail.

We were so excited by what lay ahead, we did not realize until hiking over half a mile that we had left the video camera, the walking sticks and the walkie-talkies behind in the Jeep. Even the best planning can be sabotaged by excitement! So be it, we would return and pick up the gear later. Along the Trail, we were amazed to see hundreds of tiny sea-shells that freckled the sand. We saw skeletal remains of what we think may have been an ancient turtle. We hiked east on the Trail until we came upon some sort of old winching equipment that had been cemented into the river bank. Our best guess was that it was some sort of pulley system rigged up to carry building materials up over the top of the river, or that it was in place as a barrier from the dam. We saw a crudely secured antique turnbuckle that may have been used as a supporting cable for crossing. Close to the rig, we also found some sort of gear ring, possibly a part that had come off the pulley system or maybe a piece of some heavy machinery that was used in building the dam. Just past the rig the Trail fizzled out, and we turned back. We hiked past our starting point and found the spur of the old Trail that connected to the new. My thoughts turned to Eva Tulene Watt*, and how I knew she would love to see this. This is the same trail that she and her family walked upon, and built during the 1920s. I couldn't help but feel great respect and empathy towards her, her family, and the hundreds of laborers that worked for pennies a day to build the road that would bring life to the city we now call Phoenix. Eighty-six years later, we were walking in their tracks…their tracks that had made history. I wish Eva could be here. She would be so proud!

Once back at the vehicle, we continued our journey east until just before MM 240. Here we found another trail that headed down towards the river's edge, and from here we would hike to Roosevelt Dam. Yup, hike right down the middle of what used to be the Salt River, and hike right up to the Dam! We had to crisscross the trickling river about three times and do quite a bit of rock hopping, but we finally reached our destination. We were as close to the base of Roosevelt Dam that was possible now, as the water at the bottom of the Dam was back about 100 feet or so. Daylight was slipping away, and the sun was just dropping below the mountain wall behind us. The stone wall of the Dam sparkled from the sun beams that bounced from it. It was truly a sight to behold!

As the sun set over our fabulous day, we were euphoric over this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Although this journey is not one which Eva could handle at the age of ninety-three, we will share this experience with her through video and she can accompany us through this walk of history.

I would like to thank my comrades Britannica Pat (O'Donnell), Rattlesnake Phil (Allen), and Big Bucks Butch (Wachtel) for embarking on this journey with me. I know they share my enthusiasm for the unique history of the Apache Trail that we were fortunate enough to experience today.

* Eva Tulene Watt is a White Mountain Apache woman who wrote her family history from 1860 through 1975 in "Don't Let the Sun Step Over You". Her book is an fascinating look into the past and the way of life in Arizona for the Apache people. Her father, brothers and relatives helped build the Apache Trail and the memories are quite dear to her. In gratitude of Eva's sharing her history with the outside world, Apache Trail Tours has founded the "Eva Tulene Watt Spiritual Education Fund" and donates 5% of the proceeds from all tours booked on the Apache Trail to the Saint Francis Church on the Apache Reservation.

Her book is on sale at the Apache Trail Tours office and at Superstition Mountain Museum.

Story and photographs by Jodi Akers, founder and owner of Apache Trail Jeep Tours, located at Goldfield Ghost Town. You may reach her by calling 480-982-7661 or visit on the web at www.apachetrailtours.com